Mary Lowndes

On that long hot day between Stoke-by-Nayland and Long Melford the church of the Holy Innocents in Lamarsh was a curious interlude. The name itself was delightful, but I was surprised to see such a small place in such a rural site so full of fabulous art. The images in the stained glass were boldly designed in strong colour, and deserve to be better known.  The Holy Innocents themselves took centre stage in the East window,  with the virgin Mary tenderly protecting her baby.  The church website , does not do justice to either the work or its producer. Mary Lowndes was an active member of the suffragette movement and established the Artists’ Suffrage League. She  was part of the Arts and Crafts movement; she co-founded The Glass House as a stained-glass studio and was prolific in output. This is a treasure and I am only sorry my phone was dead and I could not take any photos- I can only advise that you visit this Church for yourself .

I was pleased to learn Mary has now been recognised on the plinth of the statue of Millicent Fawcett in Parliament Square.

I left the church inspired, but also saddened that women artists are still relatively ignored. Mary deserves greater recognition for her achievments.

from Manningtree

Taking the train from Bury St Edmunds to Manningtree I walked back to Bury St Edmunds over three days. The walking conditions were hot and quite exhausting- it was a relief to enter the churches along the way to cool down.


I followed the St Edmunds Way  using Marcus Powles’ lovely book as a guide. There was so much to see. I was struck by the ordinariness of the countryside around Flatford (which was, well, flat)- no dramatic hills, but lots of sky and the meandering river Stour with swathes of rushes and a few cows sheltering beneath trees or wading in the river- very much as John Constable would have seen it.

IMG_3045.JPGWalking down hedgerows, across fields of barley and ripe wheat revealed many rural views, often with a church in the distance. Two Constable paintings are to be found: “The Ascension” in St Mary the Virgin, Dedham, and the extraordinary “Christ Blessing the Elements” at St James, Nayland. My entry into this particular church was marked by three men digging a trench across the graveyard to lay a water-pipe. “Any bones?”, I asked. “Lots!” they replied and showed me several fragments. We had a cheerful conversation until I walked in to the cool of the church to be confronted by Christ in a blood-red robe. A remarkable painting.

Memories of my first day include being almost overwhelmed by nettles leading to St Mary the Virgin, Lawford. I was rewarded with some fabulous flint work and a service with hymns drifting over a worn statue of the Virgin.IMG_3018.JPGIMG_3024.JPG

I spent the night at the Angel Inn at Stoke-by-Nayland after inspecting the truly amazing door of St Mary’s. The Tree of Jesse is a heavily carved family tree of Christ, quite extraordinary in its beauty and solemnity.


The second day seemed to go on and on, with treasure upon treasure revealing itself. After Stoke-by-Nayland, and then Nayland I found St Mary the Virgin at Wissington, tucked away behind a horse-riding event, full of medieval wall-paintings; the most impressive being a large dragon in red ochre.


The scale of the place, its coolness and quiet made me sorry to  leave but I had a long way to go. The heat of the day was quite extreme by this stage and I was glad of my pilgrim hat and a much-needed drink when I reached Bures. Then on to Lamarsh. The paths seemed to go on and on, with very physical experience of heat and rustling of rapeseed pale gold and crispy, ready to harvest.


Reaching the church of the Holy Innocents in Lamarsh revealed a remarkable interior full of stained glass by Mary Lowndes. This was so intriguing I must research further for a future blog post.  Then on again to St Mary the Virgin, Great Henny, with painted demons on the ends of roof beams. This  church is deservedly part of the Small Pilgrim Places network, a remarkable space to cool down.

I was getting tired by then, but there was much further to go with no way out as my mobile phone had run down. The afternoon was then interrupted by four fire engines racing past dealing with a field fire. I then got lost trying to find the path towards Middleton, ending up in a field of goats, and then another farm where I was re-directed.  Eventually  reaching  Sudbury, there was nothing for it but to walk, and walk, and walk another six miles along the old railway line towards Long Melford. And even having got to my destination Long Melford was very long indeed, stretching on forever to arrive eventually with my kind friends Sandie and Robert Lant. There I washed and we had a large glass of red wine with an excellent meal, whilst watching the news of the resignation of Boris Johnson! What a day.

Robert had recently retired as church warden and I was privileged the following morning to go round Holy Trinity Church with him. This must be described separately, but surfice to say there was plenty to see and reflect upon as I headed for the final stretch of my journey. Boris Johnson appeared, bizarrely, in reconstructed form as a piece of flint knapping. I was beginning to hallucinate! Something to do with the overload of images and heat? The vision was sufficiently persistent I was compelled to reconstruct it when I finally got home, entitled “The Fading Dream”..


The route back to Bury takes you across to Lavenham through a wooded stretch of old railway line now very overgrown. Once again the fabulous tower of St Peter and St Paul’s could be seen from a distance, and it was a pleasure to go in this time to cool off again.



It was afternoon already and I had to get back. I have walked this footpath from Long Melford to Bury several times before, and seem to get lost every time. When I compare to the close sign-posting of the routes to Santiago de Compostela it is fair to say things could be improved. I spent ages with my map, but this did not seem to correspond with the reality before me!  I had to guess by the direction of the sun on occasion and wish I had brought a compass and a phone-charger along. If I had been able to summon help I would have done so, but there seemed nothing else for it but to keep going. My feet were hurting by this stage and my pace was very slow and getting slower. The sun was setting when I finally arrived home.

As I sit here and nurse my blisters I can feel privileged to have done this. Two thoughts recur: firstly the act of walking is a form of incorporation – an interaction between the pilgrim and the environment through which they travel- my blisters are from the impact of the earth beneath my feet. Secondly, not all travellers are as lucky- I cannot imagine what it is like to be forced to cross continents for fear of persecution and without good resources, friendships, language or the certainty of a welcome on arrival. And yet refugees through the ages, and still now, have endured this from necessity. A Catholic movement, Share the Journey, recognises  this and encourages prayer and support for refugees through pilgrimage.



IMG_2842.JPGThe ruins of the Abbey now in Bury St Edmunds are a material reminder of how things were, but also how things move on. I wonder how many people actually mourned for the building after The Reformation- they were too busy collecting the stones and re-using them around the town. This is in contrast, say, to the recent disaster in Glasgow, where Mackintosh’s School of Art was burnt down. Debate will be had about the future of that site, and leaving it as a ruin is an option discussed by  Ray McKenzie

The Bury ruins are emotive if not actually beautiful.  They are evocative of how things were, even if our ideas of the past are unrealistic; They invoke a sense of yearning, bringing forth ghosts. Physical gaps and cracksIMG_2843.JPG symbolise our lack of understanding.  They are mysterious and invite curiosity. The Unknown is often so much more interesting than the obvious.

“Heritagisation” is a dreaded word for me as re-invoking the past seems to miss the point. Visitor centres and re-enactments seem to dwell on the obvious, the superficial, and (of course) the need for money to maintain the spectacle. These places are best left as they are as testimony to Man’s achievements and ultimate fate.



One of my favourite walks is between Clare and Bury St Edmunds, set up by the council (details onthe Long Distance Walkers’ Association site.)I take the 9am bus from Bury and start by a visit toClare Priory .This Augustinian community was revived after it was repurchased in 1953 and the infirmary was used as a church. This was extended and a modern building was consecrated in 2015. It is a truly beautiful space with a rare sense of calm.

The original church is now a ruin, but very much part of the scene.IMG_2735.JPGI wanted to stay longer, and would like to meet the Augustinians, as I realise I know nothing of either their practice or that of  the Benedictines who founded the Abbey in Bury. Their website explains the benefit of community:

“The Rule of St. Augustine emphasises the need to search for God together in order to achieve oneness of mind and heart:

“Before all else, live together in harmony, being of one mind and one heart on the way to God.”

Rule of St. Augustine Ch 1.2″
 I had to get on as it takes me roughly seven hours to walk back to Bury St Edmunds. I stopped by the Church of St Peter and St Paul to admire the doorway with the Ten Faces of the Green Man , rather worn but at least ignored by IMG_2747
William Dowsing  when he violated the place in 1643
The footpath is much easier during the summer when it is dry, and the countryside is a fine place for meditation. Apart from one lost cyclist (trying to find Dalham) I met no-one all day. The paths are reasonably well-kept, with  ways across the fields kept free, but not always obvious from signs if you didn’t know the way. Compared to the camino ways in Spain this could be improved. 

The Throng

The Camino Primitivo was quiet when we walked in April, but joining the Camino Frances at Melide the atmosphere changed as the numbers increased dramatically. Americans, Irish, Spanish, French, Italians, young and old, moved along- there was chatting in the evening and when meeting up along the road with people we had met before.  The Confraternity of Saint James keeps monthly statistics via the pilgrim office in Santiago. In 2017 there were 301,006 pilgrims recorded, compared to 93,929 in 2005, with around 60% coming from the Camino Frances.

So many people as we move towards Santiago- a mixed blessing if quiet contemplation is preferred, but exciting as you are swept forward. Music, singing, groups of youths mainly interested in their mobile phone. This pilgrimage is nearing its goal with a sense of anticipation and also a sense of returning to the “real” world.

Was this atmosphere experienced in Bury St Edmunds? If there were enough people and things going on, then Yes! It is difficult to be certain of numbers, which varied with popularity and was probably declining even before the Reformation. There were fairs, including one for St James the Apostle in July  which would have encouraged numbers. 056

Staffs, staves, sticks and rods

I have never tried a “trekking pole” until now, and can report it helps a lot. I stand more upright and can push up hills and balance across streams more easily. A fellow pilgrim agreed, describing his stick as his “friend”.

Psalm 23 verse 4: Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff they comfort me.

I had never understood the difference between a rod and staff, but am advised the rod is a stick which can be used as a weapon ( spare the rod and spoil the child) whereas the staff is a shepherd’s crook used for controlling sheep. The stave is the stick used by pilgrims and referred to in Pilgrim’s Progress as something to lean on when weary.


The food in the Asturian region was magnificent. A “pilgrim’s menu” cost between 10 and 15€, which produced several generous courses of home-made food with red wine. Favourites included Fabada, a thick soup of ham, cabbage and potatoes with chorizo sausage and black pudding, stuffed cabbage, or braised beef and a caramelised cheesecake.

A lot of energy is needed to walk 30km. I cannot imagine how this could be done whilst fasting as penitence. Self denial may be a feature of faith taken to extremes, reinforcing the idea that the bodily self is unworthy. Margery Kempe describes a scene where other pilgrims complain about her refusal to eat meat. The doctor supports her: “I will not make her eat meat while she can abstain and be the better disposed to love our Lord… and while our Lord gives her strength to abstain”

The food was part of the region- “knee- strengthening “ and repairing to manage the hills. It is a pleasure to eat knowing the food will be used as fuel for the body.

Where did the pilgrim’s eat and stay in Bury St Edmunds? I imagine this would be in the town rather than the abbey complex, and would have produced a substantial amount of work.